ASK DH – A Primer on Wheel Fitment

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Sometimes there are questions you have about RC you’ve always wondered, but for one reason or another, never asked.  Whether you’re a seasoned veteran or brand new, we’re going to bring you up to speed. Have a question you’ve been wanting to ask? Let us know in the comments!

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We are modders who love to change, tweak, and generally try to fit something together that wasn’t intended to in the name of awesome custom creations. One of the most frequent questions we get is “will these wheels fit my truck”. While people come to us so they don’t have to mess with gluing tires, it’s no use if they won’t stay on. Instead of building out an obscenely large chart, we’re going to walk through all the info you need to see if that custom set-up will fit. So bust out your caliper of choice and let’s get to work.

The Basics

There are a handful of important dimensions that will give you a good idea of whether wheels will fit or not:

  • Hex size
  • Wheel width
  • Wheel diameter (important for axle carrier clearance)
  • Tire width (may need to take into account tire bulge)
  • Tire outside diameter
  • Offset (we’ll cover this separately later in the post)

While there is some wiggle room for fitting wider or larger/smaller tires, you have to balance both clearance of axle components while minimizing rubbing in the wheel well.

Wheel-Measure

Stock measurements may sometimes be found in your manual, and some manufacturers like Team Associated provide sizing charts that give you a starting point. Looking to put on some aftermarket tires on your stock wheels? Make sure the outer diameter of the wheel and the inside diameter of the tire lines up – unlike width which has some forgiveness, the diameters must fit exactly to ensure proper gluing. This is assuming the mounted tires will fit on your truck to begin with. Measure twice, buy once.

Offset

Another big factor in wheel fitment is offset. Essentially this is distance between the edge of the hex and the imaginary center line of the wheel. Negative offset is when the hex is closer to the outside edge creating a narrow stance, while positive offset means the hex is closer to the chassis creating a wider stance. RC ‘positive/negative’ offset is opposite of offset for 1:1 cars. Why? No idea. This obviously creates a lot of confusion for people.

Note on Pro-Line: Some Pro-Line tires are marked as 0.5″ offset. This does not mean the hex is 0.5″ from center. This means that the hex is 0.5″ further (or closer) from the standard location which could already have offset, and is model specific. So a Pro-Line ‘+0.5″ Positive Offset’ wheel could actually be +0.65″ from center if the standard is +0.15″ already. This will mean your total width will be 1 inch wider than it was when you bought it.

Ask DH Wheel Offset

 

More Info

Want some help with gluing new tires? Check this out.

Need some new OEM tires that are pre-glued? Jackpot.

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